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research

04 May 03
There are a lot of annoying things about german painters from the 1500's. 1. They are usually  fron the first half of the century instead of the latter. 2. They are sorted in cathegories as biblical nudes and mythological nudes, and nudes wear no doublets. 3. They are all portraits of Noblemen, saints and Jesuses.

But after a long, long while of searching, I found something. I know that I am extrmely happy that I am not a German noblewoman from any part of the 1500's. They all wore some pretty freaky front lacing gowns with extremely puffed sleeves. Like this one: 

And of course: None of the women wore doublets. But I was lucky. I found one painting showring a doublet quite similar to the one I am looking for: I know that 1544 is a bit early, but the doublet is so similar to mine. Look at the front: no seams at the front. Open fronted from the hips and down. I am very content. The only problem is: what am I to do? I am not a man. Perhaps my brother will accept to be my dress dummy? Perhaps he will accept it if I make a more down to earth version without all the fancy slashes. Pencz was listed as a German painter, but I have seen this image being described as spanish.

Georg Pencz - Seated youth. 1544

There are of course more images, though none of them are as good as the one above. This and this are examples of something similar. Lucas Cranach the younger - Staghunt of prince Johan Friedrich
05 May 03
There is a chance that I have found another image. The first one. But is he German, and is he period? If anyone knows anything about this image, feel free to comment here. 
Note -
I found out that the doublet had a skirt attached, which was not what I was looking for. 
07 May 03
Found something! Here it is! A german painting from 1534. Showing the conquistadors leaving home. These men are not the conquistadors, but farmers. 

conquistador.jpg (30967 byte)

In the (not very good) book by John Peacock, this man is described as a German man from the 1500's

peacock.jpg (26125 byte)

12 May 03
On pages 82- 83 of Janet Arnold's 'Patterns of Fashion', you find this doublet. It is from 1610, and therefor out of period. Besides, the 'skirts' are attached, not part of the doublet. But the shape of the pattern is right, and I will probably steal both the 'wing' and the neck from here.  
13 May 03
Embellishment. What am I supposed to do with it? On the images of 'period' German garments, thay are not too puffed, slashed and jewel encrusted, which pleases me. The german doublet that you see above, is quite moderate and very beautyful. 
This one is described on pages 74 - 75 of Patterns of Fashion, and is quite moderate. The only problem is that the doubet is scottish rather than German. (Probably belonged to James 1.) Anyhow, trimming it is.... What kind of trimming is not that Important, as I do not need to worry about it before sewing the whole thing together.  

22 May 03
I have been thinking a lot about padding the last few days. Shall I pad, or shall I not? Peascod bellies were in fashion

beeing so harde-quilted, and stuffed bombasted and sewed, as they can varie hardly eyther stoupe downe or decline them selves to the grounde, soe styffe and sturdy about them... certaine I am there was never any kinde of apparell ever invented, that could more disproportion the body of man than these Dublets with great bellies, hanging down beneath their pudenda, and stuffed with foure, five or six ponds of bombast at the least. (Patterns of Fashion p.74) 

Well, although the peascods are not as scary as victorian corsets and flared jeans, they are absolutely not my favourite. The pattern for the doublet above is curved at the front, as is my pattern, so there is a chance that the big belly is supposed to be my style. I have bought some padding just in case. There is a chance that I will do some moderate padding, although it is very tempting to leave the whole padding be. Perhaps I will pad the lining and pin the whole thing together during the day. In that case, you will see whether or not I will pad. Afterall, a big belly is not as impressive today as it was during the 1590's.  

   

Images in order of appearance

>> Lucas Cranach the Elder - Judith with the Head of Holofernes
1530
>> Georg Pencz - Seated youth. 1544
>> Lucas Cranach the younger - Staghunt of prince Johan Friedrich
>> German Painting (unknown?) The conquistadors Leaving home.

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